Lafalise Froissart (Verzenay, CHAMPAGNE)
During our January visit to France, my wife Victoria and I were at a loss for words after tasting an Extra Brut Champagne from a grower that neither of us had ever heard of, Lafalise Froissart, in Grand Cru Verzenay. After learning that they are one of Champagne's hottest, young, new organic producers, we were delighted (but somewhat shocked) to hear that their wines weren’t yet exported to New York.
Paul Froissart in his 80-year-old Pinot Noir vines in the “Les Rochelles” lieu-dit of Grand Cru Verzenay.
The Lafalise family has deep roots in growing grapes in Verzenay since 1885, but only now with the sixth generation have they finally released their own estate-bottled Champagne. Paul Froissart took over his family plots in 2014, soon leaving his post at another nearby estate, then in 2019 he finally released his first Grand Cru Extra Brut. Paul and his mother Danielle farm organically, the plowing done by horses, and his five hectares in chalky Verzenay and Verzy are divided between 40 individual small plots. Fermentation is done in old barrels from Meursault, Puligny, and Chassagne, parcel by parcel, and with malolactic naturally allowed. Although he uses a “solera” system to make Champagne with older reserve wines, the vinous style of his Extra Brut and non-dosage blends is less towards the new-school oxidative fashion, and more towards the powerful barrel-aged style of the best Côte d’Or whites, with bubbles.
Simply put, Lafalise Froissart is the best new “unknown” in Champagne. But anyone operating at this level won’t stay a secret for long.
